Ensuring the precise tuning of a violin requires the use of well-fitted and properly functioning pegs. Without these essential components, accurate tuning becomes an insurmountable challenge. At Hellweg & Cloutier, we are committed to providing the utmost quality in peg fitting for our finely carved pegs.
By adhering to these techniques, we assure a refined and professional peg fitting that promotes the instrument's performance and longevity. Whether you are a musician seeking perfection or a technician aiming for excellence, this article will equip you with the knowledge and insights needed to master the art of violin peg fitting. This guide is an updated version of a great tutorial originally made by Luthier and Bow restorer Dustin Fagg.
MATERIALS AND TOOLS
- Pegs
- Peg reamer (we use 1:30 taper, Herdim brand), fractional violin and full size violin sizes
- Alberti peg shapers (1:30 taper sizes 10 through 4)
- Rubber bands
- Rule (Starett Co. No. C330)
- Bench Knife
- A fine-toothed saw (Pull-Cut Prefered)
- Sandpaper grits 220, 320, and 600
- Pencil
- LP1163-8-1 #1 wood file
- LP1163-8-00 #00 crosscut wood file
- Bench Carpet
- Awl
- 1.3 mm drill bit
- 55mm Fine Needle File
- W.E. Hill and Sons peg dope
- Digital Caliper
- Optional: tapered drill bit
SHAPING THE PEGS
First, score each of your pegs right below the collar. This is to ensure that you do not split the collar out or accidentally shave off any of the collar when shaping the pegs.
Scoring Peg collar
Proactive Planning: It's advisable to shape three of your pegs to their final diameter, while intentionally leaving one peg a size larger in the shaper. This precaution is useful if you happen to ream one of the smaller pegs excessively into the pegbox. Begin with your Alberti peg shapers, selecting the largest diameter setting that accommodates the full peg within the shaper and still facilitates effective material removal. Be aware of the diameter settings: if it's too small, the peg shaft might deviate from the center, resulting in an off-center peghead. Conversely, if the diameter is too large, the shaper won't be able to shave off any material.
Too much of the peg shaft sticking out of the peg shaper. May lead to off-center peg shafts
Appropriate amount of peg sticking out of the peg shaper to disallow off-center peg shafts
After selecting the appropriate size shaper to begin with, proceed by moving through progressively smaller diameters. Be sure to take very conservative shavings to prevent splitting the peg shaft. The process is halted at Alberti peg shaper #4, which measures roughly 7.3 mm at the collar.
Final peg diameter
With the pegs now properly shaped, the next step is to fit them into the pegbox. Should the pegs dig into your fingers while turning them in the peg shaper, consider wrapping a rubber band around the head of the peg; this small adjustment can greatly enhance your comfort during the process.
REAMING THE PEGBOX
Before you commence the reaming process, it's crucial to ensure that you're targeting the pegbox in the correct direction, so that the pegs will be positioned in their designated holes. This may seem trivial, but mistakes have indeed been made! I recall a time when I mistakenly began to ream my E peg into the first hole on the right side of the pegbox (the exit point for the G peg) and had to carefully bush the pegbox to rectify my error.
When embarking on the reaming process, you might choose to start with a fractional-sized reamer or employ a tapered drill bit to widen the predrilled holes, allowing for your full-sized peg reamer. Personally, I favor beginning with the fractional reamer, as it provides greater leeway for perfecting both the alignment of the reamer and, ultimately, the alignment of the pegs. In our shop, we align the pegs with the scroll, distinguishing our approach from those who align with the body of the instrument.
Most instruments will require a neck reset at some stage in their lifetime. A future luthier might choose to align the scroll slightly differently, a decision that could make body-aligned pegs appear misaligned or aesthetically odd.
Begin the process by opening the peg holes with the reamer, diligently checking both the front view and the top view to ensure proper alignment. As you proceed, use the specific peg you plan to fit into that hole as a guide to check your progress within the pegbox. This methodical approach helps maintain accuracy and alignment as you ream.
We take measurements to the outside of the peg, excluding any decorative elements, such as the ball found on the outside of the pegs shown in the images. Our final measurement is 34 mm. If you feel apprehensive about reaming the peg too far into the pegbox, consider spinning the reamer backwards for the last millimeter. This technique burnishes the wood instead of cutting it away, allowing for enhanced control over your peg outsets and ensuring a precise and refined finish.
Some luthiers prefer to measure to the inside of the collar, with a popular measurement being 11mm, a technique that aligns with specific aesthetic or functional requirements.
Now that you've successfully installed your first peg (I prefer to begin with the E peg), it's time to proceed with the rest. I make a concerted effort to align the first peg flawlessly, as the subsequent pegs will follow this initial alignment. If you attempt to align each peg independently, you risk having one or more pegs slightly misaligned. Conversely, if your first peg's alignment is even slightly off and you adjust it with the other three pegs, the first peg may appear awkward or skewed. To assist in alignment, I leave the first peg in the pegbox while reaming the second hole, using it as a visual guide. Always be sure to check both the top and front views to confirm proper alignment throughout the process.
We favor leaving the "A peg" protruding slightly further (by 0.5mm) for aesthetic considerations. However, it is equally acceptable to maintain the same peg outset measurement for all four pegs; ultimately, this choice boils down to individual preference and the specific visual or functional goals you wish to achieve.
Apply the same process to the other side, ensuring consistency and precision across both sides of the pegbox.
FITTING PEGS TO EXISTING PEG HOLES
When replacing an existing set of pegs on an instrument, your goal is to ream the pegbox as minimally as possible. You need to ream just enough to align the taper of the existing peg hole with the taper of your shaper. As we've noted earlier, our reamers and peg shapers follow a 1:30 taper. In this scenario, rather than reaming the hole to fit the peg, the objective is to conserve the wood of the pegbox and attain the correct outset by meticulously shaping the peg. Begin with the largest setting on the peg shaper, gradually shaving the peg shafts, and make sure to frequently check the peg outset measurement. If you encounter a situation where the pegbox has been reamed at a non-standard taper and reaming the pegbox is not an option, utilizing an adjustable peg shaper becomes essential.
A common occurrence when shaping a peg to fit an existing hole is finding yourself shaving the peg down to the correct outset measurement inside the peg hole, only to realize you're midway through a reamer size. This can leave you with an unattractive "step" of wood near the collar, disrupting the smooth appearance you may have aimed to achieve.
To eliminate this aesthetic issue, insert the peg into a larger diameter shaper and carefully push the "step" into the blade. This action effectively shaves off just the step, leaving the rest of the shaft untouched. For a visual demonstration of this technique, please refer to the video below.
Once the pegs are properly fitted using either of the aforementioned techniques, the next step is to drill a hole to accommodate the string. I initiate this process by marking the desired location for the hole with an awl, aiming to position it as centered as possible between the pegbox walls. Additionally, it's important to orient the peg so that the hole will be perpendicular to the head of the peg, as shown in the accompanying image. This careful alignment ensures both functionality and a pleasing appearance.
We employ a drill press, equipped with a 1.3 mm drill bit, to create the string hole, using a piece of plywood to support the underside of the peg. It's essential to press the peg firmly against the plywood to minimize tear-out, ensuring a smooth and clean hole. After drilling, I fine-tune the hole with a needle file, creating a finished appearance that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. This attention to detail ensures the peg is well-prepared to receive the string and perform optimally.
TRIMMING PEGS TO LENGTH
Regardless of the peg fitting method you've employed, you will now find yourself with four properly fitted pegs that are notably longer than necessary. The initial step in addressing this is to utilize a pencil to mark the end of each peg where it exits the pegbox. This marking serves as a guide for subsequent trimming and ensures that the pegs will be cut to the precise length needed for both function and appearance.
Now it's time to make the cut! In my process, I employ a bench hook and a Japanese pull-cut saw to trim the ends of the pegs. Carefully, I begin by cutting just up to the pencil line and no further, removing it entirely. This meticulous approach ensures that the pegs are trimmed to the exact length required, preserving the integrity of the fit within the pegbox.
Cut the Peg to length
Next, place the peg back in the pegbox to check the length. If it protrudes even slightly, I carefully remove the remaining excess material using a #00 file, working diligently until the end of the peg is flush with the edge of the pegbox. This step ensures a seamless fit and contributes to the overall polished appearance of the instrument.
Filing peg tip
Due to the angle of the pegbox, you may find that while the peg is flush with the wider side of the hole, it still protrudes slightly from the wall on the opposite side. This is especially typical of the A and D pegs. In this case, you'll want to carefully trim the peg so that it's flush with the narrower side, ensuring that none of the peg is sticking out at all. Precision here ensures a clean, professional look.
Even if you managed to saw the peg to the correct length on the first attempt, it's advisable to smooth out any remaining saw marks with the file. This step provides a polished finish and prepares the peg for the final touch.
Now, it's time to dress the ends of the pegs. The ultimate goal is to have a finished peg end with a very slight radius. Achieving this involves working through different grits of sandpaper. Place the sandpaper on top of your bench carpet, and press the peg end down onto it. The give of the carpet as you apply pressure helps create the slight roundness of the peg end. This nuanced detail adds a touch of refinement to the overall appearance and feel of the instrument.
After progressing through the sanding process using various grits (220, 320, and 600), turn the sandpaper over to the backside. Then, use it to burnish the end of the peg. This final polishing step creates a smooth and refined finish, enhancing the visual appeal of the peg and contributing to the overall craftsmanship of the instrument.
Lastly, to ensure optimal peg performance, apply a small amount of Hill-style peg compound. This lubrication not only facilitates smooth tuning but also preserves the peg's condition, contributing to long-term functionality and ease of use.
With the pegs now properly shaped, the next step is to fit them into the pegbox. Should the pegs dig into your fingers while turning them in the peg shaper, consider wrapping a rubber band around the head of the peg; this small adjustment can greatly enhance your comfort during the process.
REAMING THE PEGBOX
Before you commence the reaming process, it's crucial to ensure that you're targeting the pegbox in the correct direction, so that the pegs will be positioned in their designated holes. This may seem trivial, but mistakes have indeed been made! I recall a time when I mistakenly began to ream my E peg into the first hole on the right side of the pegbox (the exit point for the G peg) and had to carefully bush the pegbox to rectify my error.
When embarking on the reaming process, you might choose to start with a fractional-sized reamer or employ a tapered drill bit to widen the predrilled holes, allowing for your full-sized peg reamer. Personally, I favor beginning with the fractional reamer, as it provides greater leeway for perfecting both the alignment of the reamer and, ultimately, the alignment of the pegs. In our shop, we align the pegs with the scroll, distinguishing our approach from those who align with the body of the instrument.
Most instruments will require a neck reset at some stage in their lifetime. A future luthier might choose to align the scroll slightly differently, a decision that could make body-aligned pegs appear misaligned or aesthetically odd.
Begin the process by opening the peg holes with the reamer, diligently checking both the front view and the top view to ensure proper alignment. As you proceed, use the specific peg you plan to fit into that hole as a guide to check your progress within the pegbox. This methodical approach helps maintain accuracy and alignment as you ream.
We take measurements to the outside of the peg, excluding any decorative elements, such as the ball found on the outside of the pegs shown in the images. Our final measurement is 34 mm. If you feel apprehensive about reaming the peg too far into the pegbox, consider spinning the reamer backwards for the last millimeter. This technique burnishes the wood instead of cutting it away, allowing for enhanced control over your peg outsets and ensuring a precise and refined finish.
Some luthiers prefer to measure to the inside of the collar, with a popular measurement being 11mm, a technique that aligns with specific aesthetic or functional requirements.
Now that you've successfully installed your first peg (I prefer to begin with the E peg), it's time to proceed with the rest. I make a concerted effort to align the first peg flawlessly, as the subsequent pegs will follow this initial alignment. If you attempt to align each peg independently, you risk having one or more pegs slightly misaligned. Conversely, if your first peg's alignment is even slightly off and you adjust it with the other three pegs, the first peg may appear awkward or skewed. To assist in alignment, I leave the first peg in the pegbox while reaming the second hole, using it as a visual guide. Always be sure to check both the top and front views to confirm proper alignment throughout the process.
We favor leaving the A peg protruding slightly further (by 0.5mm) for aesthetic considerations. However, it is equally acceptable to maintain the same peg outset measurement for all four pegs; ultimately, this choice boils down to individual preference and the specific visual or functional goals you wish to achieve.
Apply the same process to the other side, ensuring consistency and precision across both sides of the pegbox.
FITTING PEGS TO EXISTING PEG HOLES
When replacing an existing set of pegs on an instrument, your goal is to ream the pegbox as minimally as possible. You need to ream just enough to align the taper of the existing peg hole with the taper of your shaper. As we've noted earlier, our reamers and peg shapers follow a 1:30 taper. In this scenario, rather than reaming the hole to fit the peg, the objective is to conserve the wood of the pegbox and attain the correct outset by meticulously shaping the peg. Begin with the largest setting on the peg shaper, gradually shaving the peg shafts, and make sure to frequently check the peg outset measurement. If you encounter a situation where the pegbox has been reamed at a non-standard taper and reaming the pegbox is not an option, utilizing an adjustable peg shaper becomes essential.
A common occurrence when shaping a peg to fit an existing hole is finding yourself shaving the peg down to the correct outset measurement inside the peg hole, only to realize you're midway through a reamer size. This can leave you with an unattractive "step" of wood near the collar, disrupting the smooth appearance you may have aimed to achieve.
To eliminate this aesthetic issue, insert the peg into a larger diameter shaper and carefully push the "step" into the blade. This action effectively shaves off just the step, leaving the rest of the shaft untouched. For a visual demonstration of this technique, please refer to the video below.
Once the pegs are properly fitted using either of the aforementioned techniques, the next step is to drill a hole to accommodate the string. I initiate this process by marking the desired location for the hole with an awl, aiming to position it as centered as possible between the pegbox walls. Additionally, it's important to orient the peg so that the hole will be perpendicular to the head of the peg, as shown in the accompanying image. This careful alignment ensures both functionality and a pleasing appearance.
We employ a drill press, equipped with a 1.3 mm drill bit, to create the string hole, using a piece of plywood to support the underside of the peg. It's essential to press the peg firmly against the plywood to minimize tear-out, ensuring a smooth and clean hole. After drilling, I fine-tune the hole with a needle file, creating a finished appearance that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. This attention to detail ensures the peg is well-prepared to receive the string and perform optimally.
TRIMMING PEGS TO LENGTH
Regardless of the peg fitting method you've employed, you will now find yourself with four properly fitted pegs that are notably longer than necessary. The initial step in addressing this is to utilize a pencil to mark the end of each peg where it exits the pegbox. This marking serves as a guide for subsequent trimming and ensures that the pegs will be cut to the precise length needed for both function and appearance.
Now it's time to make the cut! In my process, I employ a bench hook and a Japanese pull-cut saw to trim the ends of the pegs. Carefully, I begin by cutting just up to the pencil line and no further, removing it entirely. This meticulous approach ensures that the pegs are trimmed to the exact length required, preserving the integrity of the fit within the pegbox.
Cut the Peg to length
Next, place the peg back in the pegbox to check the length. If it protrudes even slightly, I carefully remove the remaining excess material using a #00 file, working diligently until the end of the peg is flush with the edge of the pegbox. This step ensures a seamless fit and contributes to the overall polished appearance of the instrument.
Filing peg tip
Due to the angle of the pegbox, you may find that while the peg is flush with the wider side of the hole, it still protrudes slightly from the wall on the opposite side. This is especially typical of the A and D pegs. In this case, you'll want to carefully trim the peg so that it's flush with the narrower side, ensuring that none of the peg is sticking out at all. Precision here ensures a clean, professional look.
Even if you managed to saw the peg to the correct length on the first attempt, it's advisable to smooth out any remaining saw marks with the file. This step provides a polished finish and prepares the peg for the final touch.
Now, it's time to dress the ends of the pegs. The ultimate goal is to have a finished peg end with a very slight radius. Achieving this involves working through different grits of sandpaper. Place the sandpaper on top of your bench carpet, and press the peg end down onto it. The give of the carpet as you apply pressure helps create the slight roundness of the peg end. This nuanced detail adds a touch of refinement to the overall appearance and feel of the instrument.
After progressing through the sanding process using various grits (220, 320, and 600), turn the sandpaper over to the backside. Then, use it to burnish the end of the peg. This final polishing step creates a smooth and refined finish, enhancing the visual appeal of the peg and contributing to the overall craftsmanship of the instrument.
Lastly, to ensure optimal peg performance, apply a small amount of Hill-style peg compound. This lubrication not only facilitates smooth tuning but also preserves the peg's condition, contributing to long-term functionality and ease of use.